The Temple’s Sacred Invocation and Pilgrimage Verse
The principal Buddhist invocation recited by pilgrims is “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo”, a devotional phrase honoring Kobo Daishi and expressing reverence for his spiritual teachings.
The temple’s traditional pilgrimage verse reads:
“Even your shadow should know my name, O solitary pine; guiding and saving all beings through past, present, and future.”
This verse expresses the temple’s enduring spiritual mission: to guide people toward salvation and offer compassion across generations.
The Legend of Kobo Daishi and the Salted Mackerel
The temple’s popular name, Saba Daishi, is rooted in a legend dating to the early Heian period, during the Konin era (810–823). According to tradition, Kobo Daishi, also known as Kukai, was traveling through the Yasaka coastal area when he stopped to spend the night beneath a pine tree said to have been planted by the Buddhist monk Gyoki.
A horse handler passed by with salted mackerel loaded onto his horse. When Kobo Daishi asked for one of the fish, the handler refused. Soon afterward, the horse suddenly began suffering severe distress. Alarmed, the handler offered the fish to the monk. Kobo Daishi then blessed water and gave it to the horse, which promptly recovered.
The legend continues at Hojoshima, associated with today’s Osuna Beach. There, Kobo Daishi is said to have performed prayers over the salted mackerel before releasing it into the sea. The fish miraculously came back to life and swam away. This extraordinary event became the foundation of the Saba Daishi legend, and a small temple known as Gyoki-an was subsequently established in the area.
An Earlier Version of the Legend: The Monk Gyoki
A similar story is associated with Gyoki, an influential Buddhist monk who traveled throughout Japan. This version appears in the Shikoku Henro Michishirube, a pilgrimage guide written by Shinnen in the early Edo period.
According to the account, Gyoki encountered a horse handler carrying salted mackerel while traveling through Shikoku. When Gyoki asked for a fish and was refused, he recited a verse suggesting that the horse would suffer because the handler would not give him one.
The horse immediately developed stomach pains. The frightened handler then offered the fish to Gyoki, who changed a word in the verse to express that the fish had been given willingly. The horse’s suffering subsequently ceased.
Although the details differ between versions, both stories emphasize the power of religious compassion, prayer, and the consequences of refusing an act of generosity.
The Saba Abstinence Prayer
One of the distinctive devotional practices at Yasakadera is known as Saba-dachi, or abstaining from mackerel. Worshippers write wishes on wooden prayer plaques called ema, asking for good fortune, the blessing of children, recovery from illness, and other personal hopes. They then undertake a vow to refrain from eating mackerel for three years.
According to local belief, observing this vow with sincere faith can help bring their wishes to fulfillment. The practice forms an important part of the distinctive Saba Daishi tradition and continues to attract people seeking spiritual support in their daily lives.
The Folklore Behind the Saba Daishi Legend
The folklorist Shigeru Gorai interpreted the Saba Daishi legend in connection with Japanese folk tales about supernatural mountain women, known as yamauba, who demand salted mackerel from travelers transporting goods by horse or ox.
One interpretation suggests that these stories developed from ancient customs of offering food to restless ancestral spirits believed to wander through mountains and mountain passes. Over time, such customs may have been incorporated into Buddhist legends associated with Gyoki and Kobo Daishi.
Gorai also noted a possible connection with the Buddhist term sa-ba, referring to food offerings made for the deceased, which sounds similar to the Japanese word for mackerel, saba. This linguistic association may have helped give the legend additional Buddhist significance.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Main Hall and Kobo Daishi Hall
The main hall houses a statue of Kobo Daishi that is regarded as an absolutely hidden Buddhist image and is not available for public viewing. Nearby, the Daishi Hall features a stone statue of Kobo Daishi holding a mackerel, an image that visitors can see at any time. The statue offers a tangible connection to the legend that has made the temple famous.
Cave Pilgrimage Routes and the Goma Hall
One of the temple’s most unusual attractions is its underground pilgrimage area. The cave contains two miniature pilgrimage routes: an 88-temple pilgrimage modeled on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage and a 33-temple pilgrimage dedicated to Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion. The entrance is located to the right of the main hall.
At the deepest point of the cave stands the Goma Hall, where a standing statue of Fudo Myoo, a fierce Buddhist deity associated with protection and the destruction of evil, is enshrined alongside two attendant figures. The dim, enclosed setting creates a distinctive atmosphere for prayer and reflection.
The Horse-Headed Kannon Hall and Heart Sutra Pagoda
The Bato Kannon Hall, dedicated to the horse-headed manifestation of Kannon, stands near the parking area and is open for visitors to view. The temple also has a multi-tiered pagoda known as the Hannya Shingyo-to, or Heart Sutra Pagoda, which enshrines a standing statue of Sho Kannon. Its peaceful surroundings make it another worthwhile stop during a visit.
The Mountain Pilgrimage and Konpira Shrine
Beyond the main temple grounds, visitors can explore a miniature mountain pilgrimage route representing the 88 sacred sites. The circuit takes approximately 20 minutes to complete. Konpira Shrine, situated halfway up the mountain, is another place where visitors can pause to pray and enjoy the quiet natural surroundings.
How to Reach Yasakadera Temple
By Train
The temple is approximately 200 meters on foot from Sabase Station on the JR Mugi Line, making it a convenient destination for travelers exploring southern Tokushima by rail.
By Bus
Visitors can take a Tokushima Bus service and get off at the Sabase bus stop. The temple is approximately 200 meters away on foot.
By Car
From National Route 55, follow the access road and cross the bridge with red railings. The Bato Kannon Hall is located nearby, with free parking available in the surrounding area. From the parking area, walk along the approach, where statues of the temple guardians, known as nio, welcome visitors on their way to the main hall.
The Spread of Saba Daishi Belief Across Japan
Belief in Saba Daishi first spread widely throughout Awa Province, the historical name for much of present-day Tokushima Prefecture, before reaching other parts of Japan. Traveling Buddhist preachers and religious fundraising monks helped carry the legend to distant communities, where it developed into regional variations known from Aomori in northern Japan to Kyushu in the south.
In different versions, the names of the monks and details of the stories sometimes changed, with figures such as Gyoki and Kobo Daishi appearing in similar roles. Despite these variations, the central themes remain faith, prayer, compassion, and the hope of receiving divine protection.
Over time, the Saba Daishi story became firmly associated with Kobo Daishi. Today, Yasakadera remains a meaningful destination for pilgrims praying for safe journeys, recovery from illness, and good fortune. For travelers interested in Japanese Buddhist traditions and the living folklore of Shikoku, this temple offers a memorable opportunity to experience a spiritual heritage that continues to be cherished across generations.