History of Tairyūji Temple
Kūkai’s Mountain Training
Tairyūji is closely associated with Kūkai, the Buddhist monk also known as Kōbō Daishi, who founded the Shingon school of Buddhism in Japan. In the preface to his work Sangō Shiiki, written when he was 24, Kūkai described practicing religious austerities at “Ōtaki-dake in Awa Province,” a place believed to correspond to present-day Mount Tairyūji.
According to tradition, Kūkai abandoned his studies in the capital at the age of 19 and spent 100 days practicing the Kokūzō Gumonji-hō meditation on Shashindake, a rocky peak west of the temple. The practice was dedicated to Kokūzō Bosatsu and was intended to cultivate extraordinary memory and wisdom. The temple’s name, Tairyūji, is traditionally linked to a dragon deity believed to have protected Kūkai during his training.
Patronage by Emperors and the Warrior Class
In 793, under the patronage of Emperor Kanmu, Fujiwara no Fumiyama, a provincial governor of Awa, is said to have established the temple complex. Tradition holds that Kūkai carved an image of Kokūzō Bosatsu himself and enshrined it in one of the temple buildings.
In 825, Emperor Junna reportedly donated land to the temple. Later, in 1095, the retired Emperor Shirakawa ordered its restoration under Chōhan, a monk from Tōji Temple in Kyoto. These acts of imperial patronage helped establish Tairyūji as an important religious center.
Destruction and Reconstruction
After receiving support from the imperial court and warrior families for centuries, Tairyūji was destroyed by fire during the military campaigns of Chōsokabe Motochika in the late 16th century. The temple was subsequently rebuilt with support from the Hachisuka family, the lords of Tokushima Domain.
Changes in the Modern Era
In the postwar years, the temple struggled with the challenges of maintaining a remote mountain sanctuary. Its three-story pagoda was lost in 1959. A major turning point came in 1992, when the Tairyūji Ropeway opened, making the temple much easier to reach. Together with renewed interest in the Shikoku pilgrimage, improved access helped bring new life to the temple.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
Sanmon Gate and Nio Guardians
The imposing Sanmon, or main gate, marks the entrance to the temple grounds. It is guarded by a pair of Nio guardian statues, traditionally believed to protect Buddhist temples from evil. The statues date to the Kamakura period and are renowned as the largest and oldest of their kind in Tokushima Prefecture.
Shōrōmon Bell Gate
The Shōrōmon stands partway up the stone steps leading toward the main hall. Its dignified architecture adds to the solemn atmosphere of the approach, inviting visitors to leave behind the distractions of everyday life as they ascend toward the sacred buildings.
Main Hall
The main hall enshrines a large Buddhist statue known as a han-jōroku figure, approximately half the traditional size of a Jōroku Buddha statue. The principal image is formally unveiled once a year on January 12, followed by a Buddhist service.
On the annual unveiling day, visitors can generally enter the main hall to pay their respects from around noon until approximately 3 p.m. During ordinary visits, the doors of the image’s shrine are usually open during the day, allowing visitors to view it from outside the inner enclosure.
Daishidō Hall
The Daishidō is dedicated to Kūkai, the temple’s revered Buddhist master. Its principal image is unveiled on the 21st day of the third month of the traditional lunar calendar. The present building was reconstructed in 1878 and remains an important focus of worship for pilgrims visiting Tairyūji.
Jibutsudō Hall and the Dragon Painting
The ceiling of the Jibutsudō features a striking dragon painting by Shōrei Takemura, an artist from Kōchi Prefecture. Located above the temple’s long corridor, the artwork creates a memorable visual highlight for visitors passing through the building.
Hexagonal Sutra Repository
The Rokkaku Kyōzō is a six-sided repository for Buddhist scriptures. Its distinctive shape makes it an architectural feature of the temple grounds, while its function reflects the central role of sacred texts in Buddhist study and practice.
Goma Hall
The Goma Hall enshrines Fudō Myōō, a fierce guardian deity associated with the Buddhist fire ritual known as goma. The image is traditionally attributed to Kōgyō Daishi. Worshippers pray to Fudō Myōō for protection from misfortune and support in overcoming difficulties.
Benzaiten Shrine
This small shrine is dedicated to Benzaiten, a deity associated with prosperity, the arts, learning, and eloquence. Visitors come to offer prayers for success in business, creative pursuits, and education.
Tahōtō Pagoda
The Tahōtō, built in 1861, enshrines five forms of Kokūzō Bosatsu. This bodhisattva is revered as a source of wisdom, knowledge, and spiritual abundance. Worshippers recite a traditional mantra in devotion to Kokūzō Bosatsu and to seek guidance and blessings.
Gumonji Hall
The Gumonji Hall is a dedicated place for practicing Kokūzō Gumonji-hō, the intensive meditation tradition associated with Kūkai’s early training. It is regarded as one of only three such practice centers in Japan, giving it special significance for those interested in esoteric Buddhist traditions and ascetic training.
Chūkōdō Hall
The Chūkōdō honors two important figures in the temple’s history: Chōhan, the fourth-generation head priest from the late Heian period, and Ryōzan, the 22nd-generation head priest from the early Edo period. The hall commemorates their contributions to the temple’s development and revival.
Chinjusha Guardian Shrine
The Chinjusha enshrines five guardian deities: Ebisu Daimyōjin, Amaterasu Kōtaijin, Itsukushima Daimyōjin, Kashima Daimyōjin, and Miwa Daimyōjin. These deities are revered as protectors of the temple and the surrounding community, reflecting the historical relationship between Buddhist temples and local Shinto worship.
Sōrintō Tower
The Sōrintō is a Buddhist tower erected in 1816. Standing within the temple grounds, it serves as a symbolic expression of Buddhist faith and adds another distinctive feature to the complex’s religious architecture.
Haiku Monument
At the foot of the stone steps leading to the main hall stands a monument bearing a haiku by Santōka Taneda: “No matter how far I walk into them, the mountains remain green.” The verse captures the stillness and natural beauty of the mountain pilgrimage trail, where visitors pass through seemingly endless green woodland.
Walking Route Through the Temple Grounds
After entering through the Sanmon Gate, visitors follow a long approach toward the central buildings. The Hexagonal Sutra Repository, Goma Hall, Jibutsudō Hall, and the temple office, where pilgrimage stamps and calligraphy are available, stand to the right along the route.
Farther ahead, stone steps lead upward to the Shōrōmon Bell Gate. At the top, turning left brings visitors to the main hall, with the Gumonji Hall located behind it to the left. Turning right and crossing a bridge leads to the worship hall of the Daishidō. Visitors can remove their shoes and walk around the corridor to reach the inner sanctuary.
Those arriving by ropeway have a shorter approach. From the upper ropeway station, a flight of steps leads directly to the front of the main hall. Surrounded by mountain scenery, the route offers a wonderful opportunity to appreciate the natural landscape as well as the temple’s spiritual atmosphere.
Annual Ceremonies and Events
Hatsue-shiki: January 12
The annual principal-image unveiling ceremony takes place on January 12, beginning at 11 a.m. It is one of the most important events on the temple calendar. After the unveiling, visitors can generally enter the main hall to pay their respects from around noon until approximately 3 p.m.
Kyūshō Mieiku: The 21st Day of the Third Lunar Month
This ceremony commemorates Kūkai and includes the unveiling of his image. Pilgrims and worshippers gather to express their respect for the Buddhist master and reflect on his teachings. Because the date follows the traditional lunar calendar, the corresponding date on the modern calendar changes each year.
Buddha’s Birthday: The Eighth Day of the Fourth Lunar Month
Known as Busshōe, this ceremony celebrates the birth of Shakyamuni Buddha. Visitors may be offered sweet hydrangea tea, a traditional part of the celebration. The event provides an opportunity to reflect on the Buddha’s life and teachings.
New Year’s Eve Bell: December 31
On New Year’s Eve, the temple opens its bell-ringing ceremony to members of the public from around 11:30 p.m. Ringing the bell 108 times symbolizes the cleansing of the 108 worldly desires traditionally believed to cause human suffering. It is a meaningful way to welcome the new year with a renewed sense of calm.
Cultural Properties and Historic Pilgrimage Trails
National Historic Site: Awa Henro Michi – Tairyūji Trail
The historic pilgrimage route known as the Awa Henro Michi – Tairyūji Trail includes a section of approximately 4.3 kilometers between the Sugii settlement and Tairyūji Temple. This route was designated a National Historic Site on August 5, 2010, recognizing its importance as part of the traditional Shikoku pilgrimage network.
Other historic paths near the temple, including the Kamo-michi and Iwaya-michi trails, are also protected as cultural heritage. These routes preserve the landscape and paths followed by generations of pilgrims traveling through the mountains.
Registered Tangible Cultural Properties
Several temple buildings, including the main hall, Daishidō, Goma Hall, Tahōtō, and Hexagonal Sutra Repository, are registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan. Their preservation helps safeguard the temple’s architectural heritage and offers visitors a closer look at the craftsmanship and religious traditions of different periods.
Tokushima Prefectural Historic Site: Milepost Stones
The temple’s historic distance markers, known as chōishi, are designated as Tokushima Prefectural Historic Sites. These stone markers once helped pilgrims measure their progress along the mountain routes and remain valuable reminders of the hardships and dedication associated with traditional pilgrimage journeys.
How to Get to Tairyūji Temple
By Train and Ropeway
The nearest railway station is Kuwano Station on the JR Mugi Line, approximately 9.5 kilometers from the temple. From the surrounding area, visitors can take the Tairyūji Ropeway to the upper station, a journey of about 11 minutes. The ropeway is a convenient way to reach the mountain sanctuary while enjoying panoramic views of the landscape.
By Bus
Take a Tokushima Bus Nanbu service on the Nyūdani Line and get off at the Asebi bus stop. The temple is approximately 6.3 kilometers from there. The ropeway’s lower station is also nearby, making the ropeway a practical option for the final part of the journey.
By Car
Drivers can use Tokushima Prefectural Route 28, the Anan–Komatsushima Line, and continue toward the temple parking area. From the parking area, the temple is approximately 1.1 kilometers away on foot. Another possible approach is via Tokushima Prefectural Route 19, the Anan–Washiki–Hiwasa Line. As the temple is located in mountainous terrain, visitors should allow extra time for the journey.
Explore the Inner Sanctuaries
Minami Shashindake
Minami Shashindake is traditionally regarded as the place where Kūkai practiced Kokūzō Gumonji-hō for 100 days at the age of 19. To commemorate his austerities, a bronze statue of Kūkai now sits on a rocky outcrop, facing toward Mount Kōya, the center of the Kōyasan Shingon tradition.
A path begins beside the upper ropeway station and follows a circuit of stone images representing the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage. Along the way, visitors encounter small shrines and monuments before reaching a viewpoint where the statue of Kūkai can be seen against the rugged mountain landscape.
The bronze statue was created in 1993 to mark 1,200 years since Kūkai’s entry into the mountain sanctuary. A small Fudō Hall, reportedly measuring nine Japanese shaku in length, once stood at this site.
Kita Shashindake
Kita Shashindake is home to a small shrine dedicated to the Eight Great Youths, attendants of Fudō Myōō. From the path between the Niōmon Gate and the temple’s main residence, a short side trail of about 100 meters leads to a large rock with a ladder rising toward the shrine above. This secluded spot is another distinctive feature of Tairyūji’s mountain setting.
Places to Visit Near Tairyūji Temple
Kurotakiji Temple
Kurotakiji Temple is another mountain sanctuary associated with Kūkai and Buddhist ascetic practice. According to local tradition, Kūkai received a revelation from a divine child while practicing at Mount Tairyūji. Another legend tells how he subdued a great dragon living near the summit of Mount Kurotaki and confined it to a deep pool.
The temple is also regarded as an important site in the history of mountain Buddhism and serves as Temple No. 88 on the New Shikoku Mandala Pilgrimage.
Address: 5 Kurotakiyama, Kurotaki, Atsue, Naka Town, Naka District, Tokushima Prefecture
Ebisu Shrine
Ebisu Shrine enshrines a deity said to have guided Kūkai to this area before he established Tairyūji. The shrine stands near the lower station of the Tairyūji Ropeway. From the station area, cross the Naka River over the red Tano Bridge to reach it. The shrine remains a familiar place of worship for local residents.
Address: Washiki 154, Naka Town, Naka District, Tokushima Prefecture
Hyochū Kannon
Hyochū Kannon is located near the lower ropeway station, on a slope just off Prefectural Route 19. After climbing the approach, visitors reach the main hall and a red shrine farther uphill. A vertical opening in the rock beside the building contains icicle-like patterns in the stone, giving the site its name, which refers to an icicle-like formation.
Address: Washikigō, Naka Town, Naka District, Tokushima Prefecture
Isshukuji Temple
Isshukuji Temple is known as the starting point of the Kamo-michi, one of the historic pilgrimage routes leading to Tairyūji. A stone distance marker stands at the trail entrance, marking the beginning of the walk toward the mountain temple. The site is also designated a Tokushima Prefectural Historic Site and is of particular interest to visitors exploring the history of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Address: 5 Shukuigatani, Kamo, Anan City, Tokushima Prefecture
Asebi Kannon-an
Asebi Kannon-an is located at the foot of the mountains below Tairyūji, along the route connecting the Iwaya-michi pilgrimage trail with the path toward Byōdōji Temple. The Kannon hall stands in a scenic location overlooking the surrounding landscape, offering visitors a quiet place to appreciate the region’s devotional traditions.
Address: Nishinai, Asebi, Anan City, Tokushima Prefecture
Wakasugiyama Cinnabar Mining Site
Surrounded by cedar trees in a valley along the Tairyūji Trail north of the temple, the Wakasugiyama Cinnabar Mining Site preserves evidence of ancient mineral extraction. Cinnabar, also known as vermilion ore, was collected here in antiquity and is of considerable archaeological importance. The site is an appealing destination for visitors interested in both local history and mountain scenery.
Address: Mizui, Anan City, Tokushima Prefecture
Tairyūji and the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage
Tairyūji is Temple No. 21 on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. The neighboring temples along this section of the route are:
No. 20 Kakurinji Temple — approximately 6.5 km — No. 21 Tairyūji Temple — approximately 10.9 km — No. 22 Byōdōji Temple
Tairyūji and the Awa Chichibu Kannon Pilgrimage
Tairyūji is also Temple No. 10 on the Awa Chichibu Kannon Pilgrimage. The neighboring sites on this route are listed as:
No. 9 Kanshōji Temple — No. 10 Tairyūji Temple — No. 11 Fudarakusan
Tips for Visiting Tairyūji Temple
The Tairyūji Ropeway is a convenient way to reach the temple and enjoy views of the surrounding mountains along the way. Once there, allow time to explore the temple buildings, historic pilgrimage paths, and secluded mountain sanctuaries associated with Kūkai’s spiritual training.
Whether you are following the Shikoku pilgrimage, exploring Japan’s Buddhist heritage, or simply seeking a peaceful mountain retreat, Tairyūji offers a memorable combination of spiritual history, traditional architecture, and natural beauty.