The Temple’s Sacred Mantra and Pilgrimage Poem
Mantra of Yakushi Nyorai
“On korokoro sendari matougi sowaka.”
Pilgrimage Poem
“Yakushi Temple, grant the healing medicine of lapis lazuli to all those who suffer through the years of illness.”
History of Yakuoji Temple
The temple’s origins date back to 726, during the Nara period. According to tradition, it was founded by the Buddhist priest Gyoki at the imperial command of Emperor Shomu.
In 815, the revered monk Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, was commissioned by the retired Emperor Heizei to establish a place of prayer for protection against misfortune. Kukai carved an image of Yakushi Nyorai and built the temple buildings.
In 1188, a fire destroyed the temple complex. According to legend, the principal image miraculously flew to the temple’s inner sanctuary on Mount Tamazushi, escaping the flames. The temple was later rebuilt by order of Emperor Go-Daigo, and a new principal image was carved. However, the original image is said to have returned of its own accord, entered its shrine facing backward, and closed the doors behind it. This story is associated with the temple’s two images of Yakushi Nyorai, one of which is known as the “Backward-Facing Yakushi.”
Reconstruction and Religious Patronage
Following its reconstruction under Emperor Go-Daigo, Yakuoji continued to receive devoted support from successive emperors and the Hachisuka family, who ruled the Tokushima domain. The temple was held in such high regard as a place to pray for protection against misfortune that imperial envoys were sent there. The present Main Hall was rebuilt in 1908.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
Sanmon Gate
The temple’s main gate, known as the Niomon Gate, was built in 1835. As Yakuoji is renowned for prayers to ward off misfortune, passing through this gate is traditionally believed to help dispel bad luck.
Steps for Dispelling Misfortune
One of Yakuoji’s best-known features is its series of stone steps associated with different ages and traditional periods of misfortune. The Women’s Slope has 33 steps, the Men’s Slope has 42 steps, and the slope for the traditional 60th-year milestone has 60 steps.
Climbing the appropriate staircase is believed to help ward off misfortune. The steps are an important part of the temple’s pilgrimage experience, and visitors can take time to reflect on their wishes as they ascend.
Main Hall and Inner Sanctuary
The Main Hall, rebuilt in 1908, is the principal place of worship. Nearby, the Inner Hall is a two-tiered structure that contributes to the solemn atmosphere of the grounds. Visitors may also be able to worship inside the buildings by making arrangements at the temple.
Hai Daishi Shrine
Behind the Main Hall stands a small shrine known as Hai Daishi, or the “Lung Daishi.” Water described as containing radium and known as lapis lazuli water springs from the area. Traditionally, the water has been associated with benefits for lung ailments. A stone image of Kobo Daishi is enshrined here.
Hakusan Gongen Shrine and Other Sacred Sites
The grounds contain several smaller religious structures, including a shrine dedicated to Hakusan Gongen, a Jizo Hall, and a Ten Kings Hall. Visitors pray at these sites for protection from misfortune, good fortune, and well-being.
The grounds also feature a bell used in prayers to dispel bad luck. Visitors traditionally recite the Daizuigu mantra while ringing the bell once for each year of their age, as a symbolic act of purification.
Yugito Pagoda
Built in 1963, Yugito is an elegant pagoda-shaped structure and one of the temple’s distinctive landmarks. On the lower level, visitors can undertake a traditional passage through a darkened space known as a kaidan-meguri and find enshrined images of the Yakushi Triad. The first floor houses the Five Wisdom Buddhas and displays a beautiful image of the Fish-Basket Kannon.
The second floor serves as an observation area, which visitors can enter for a fee. It offers another perspective on the temple grounds and surrounding landscape.
Poetry and Literary Monuments
The temple grounds also preserve traces of Japan’s literary culture. A haiku monument by Hisaki Matsumura stands to the right of the Daishi Hall. It bears the verse, “The dew is heavy—someone has already begun to walk ahead.” A literary monument honoring the celebrated novelist Eiji Yoshikawa stands to the left of the Main Hall.
Temple Treasures and Cultural Properties
Yakuoji preserves several important religious artworks designated as tangible cultural properties by Minami Town. These include the Eight Patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism, a Star Mandala depicting the Nine Luminaries, and the guardian statues at the Niomon Gate.
Statues of the Eight Patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism
Designated a tangible cultural property by Minami Town in 2015, this collection consists of nine portrait sculptures associated with the lineage of Shingon Buddhism, including Kobo Daishi and Huiguo. They are housed in the Daishi Hall.
The collection includes a statue of Kobo Daishi made in 1550, while the other eight statues were created in 1774 by the Kyoto Buddhist sculptor Shiogama Joji.
Star Mandala of the Nine Luminaries
This Star Mandala dates from the Muromachi period (1336–1573). It was used in Buddhist rituals involving celestial bodies and depicts the Nine Luminaries, including the stars associated with Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, as well as Ketu and Rahu. The mandala has traditionally been revered in prayers for protection against misfortune.
Guardian Statues at the Niomon Gate
The Niomon Gate houses two imposing guardian statues created in 1836 by Buddhist sculptors Shiogama Koun and Yasunobu. Each statue stands approximately 230 centimeters tall. Both underwent restoration in 2000 and continue to guard the temple entrance.
Nature Within the Temple Grounds
Ancient Camphor Trees
Two large camphor trees stand within the temple grounds and are designated natural monuments by Minami Town. Believed to be several hundred years old, these impressive trees provide a sense of continuity with the past and have watched over generations of worshippers.
Inner Sanctuary: Taisenji Temple on Mount Tamazushi
Taisenji Temple, the inner sanctuary of Yakuoji, is located on the slopes of Mount Tamazushi at an elevation of approximately 540 meters. Its principal image is Nyoirin Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion.
According to local tradition, when Yakuoji was destroyed by fire, its original image of Yakushi Nyorai flew to this mountain and remained there, radiating light. The sanctuary is reached by a challenging route, with approximately a 40-minute walk from the parking area to the temple. The journey requires preparation, but the secluded spiritual atmosphere and mountain scenery make it a rewarding destination for those interested in the region’s religious heritage.
Other Pilgrimage Sites Nearby
Komatsu Daishi
Komatsu Daishi is a small pilgrimage site near Yakuoji. According to tradition, a stonemason from Namba in Osaka dreamed that an image of Kobo Daishi should be sent to Komatsu in Awa, inspiring the site’s establishment. Pilgrims continue to visit this place of worship.
Waraji Daishi
Located near Yasaka Tunnel, Waraji Daishi is a place where travelers pray for a safe passage through what was once considered a difficult stretch of road. A new statue of Kobo Daishi was installed here in 2010.
Saba Daishi Honbo
Saba Daishi Honbo is the fourth temple on the Shikoku Bekkaku 20 Temple Pilgrimage, a supplementary pilgrimage route associated with Shikoku’s sacred sites. The temple is connected with the legend of Saba Daishi, or the “Mackerel Daishi,” and remains a familiar stop for pilgrims exploring the region.
Namikiri Fudoson
Namikiri Fudoson is a secluded religious site near a tributary of the Kaifu River. Its moss-covered grounds and tall cedar trees create a quiet, atmospheric setting. Local tradition tells of two cedar trees watched over by Kobo Daishi that prevented evildoers from passing through.
Getting to Yakuoji Temple
By Train
The temple is approximately a 10-minute walk from Hiwasa Station on the JR Mugi Line.
By Bus
From Tokushima City, take a Tokushima Bus service toward Anan and get off at Hiwasa Bus Stop. The temple is about a 10-minute walk from the stop.
By Car
Yakuoji Temple is approximately a 90-minute drive from Tokushima Interchange on the Tokushima Expressway. Parking is available for visitors arriving by car.
Experience the Spiritual Heritage of Shikoku
Yakuoji Temple is one of Shikoku’s best-known destinations for prayers to ward off misfortune. Its historic halls, distinctive staircases, cultural treasures, and centuries-old traditions make it a rewarding stop for pilgrims and travelers alike.
Visitors can climb the traditional steps, explore the temple’s striking pagoda, and discover the legends surrounding its principal image. For those traveling through southern Tokushima, Yakuoji offers an opportunity to experience the spiritual culture of the Shikoku pilgrimage while enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of Minami Town.