Temple Overview and Spiritual Traditions
The Legend Behind the Temple’s Name
According to temple tradition, Kūkai visited this area to pray for protection against misfortune. During his prayers, clouds of five colors rose into the sky, and a Sanskrit character representing Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha of the Diamond Realm, appeared in a golden light. This miraculous event is said to have inspired Kūkai to carve an image of Yakushi Nyorai and establish the temple.
The name Byōdō-ji expresses the aspiration that all people may enjoy equal happiness and receive compassion without distinction. The temple’s spiritual message reflects Kūkai’s wish to save all living beings equally.
The Principal Buddha and the Sacred Connecting Cord
A distinctive feature of Byōdō-ji is the sacred connecting cord, known as a kechien no tsuna, which extends from the principal image of Yakushi Nyorai. Worshippers believe that holding or touching this cord creates a spiritual connection with the Buddha.
Another highlight is the view from the main hall. Looking into the distance, visitors can see a landscape whose contours are said to resemble Kōbō Daishi lying down. This unusual resemblance has earned the scene recognition among the 88 Scenic Views of Shikoku.
Mantra of the Principal Buddha
The mantra traditionally recited to Yakushi Nyorai is:
On korokoro sendari matougi sowaka
Visitors may hear or recite this mantra as part of their prayers for healing, health, and well-being.
The Temple’s Pilgrimage Poem
Each temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage has a traditional devotional poem, known as a goeika. Byōdō-ji’s poem expresses faith in the Buddha’s impartial compassion:
When I hear that all are treated equally, without distinction, I see a Buddha in whom I can truly place my trust.
The History of Byōdō-ji
Foundation and Sacred Spring
According to temple accounts, Kūkai performed prayers for protection against misfortune at this site. Five-colored clouds appeared, and a golden Sanskrit character associated with Dainichi Nyorai emerged in the sky. During a subsequent ritual, an image of Yakushi Nyorai is said to have appeared from the ground.
Kūkai then reportedly struck the earth with his staff, causing milky-white water to spring forth. After purifying himself with this water, he is said to have practiced austerities for 100 days, carved an image of Yakushi Nyorai, and built a hall to enshrine it. This story forms the traditional account of the temple’s founding.
The sacred water became closely associated with the temple’s name and mission: to pray for universal happiness and offer salvation to all living beings without discrimination.
Destruction and Revival
Byōdō-ji once flourished as a major religious complex with seven principal temple buildings and 12 affiliated temples. However, the complex was destroyed by fire during the military campaigns of Chōsokabe Motochika in the Tenshō era (1573–1592).
The temple was revived during the Kyōhō era (1716–1736) under the leadership of the Buddhist master Shōshun Ajari. Since 2017, an annual ceremony known as the Honzon Hatsue-shiki has been held, featuring goma fire rituals and prayers offered before the principal Buddha.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Main Gate
The main gate is a two-story structure with an irimoya-style roof, a traditional Japanese roof form combining gables and hipped sections. It houses imposing Nio guardian figures, who protect the sacred grounds from evil influences. Passing through the gate marks the entrance to the temple’s tranquil spiritual precinct.
The Main Hall
The main hall enshrines Yakushi Rurikō Nyorai, the Healing Buddha, accompanied by the Bodhisattvas Nikkō and Gakkō and the Twelve Heavenly Generals, who serve as guardians of the Buddha of Healing.
Additional statues in the side sections include a seated image of Blue Fudō Myōō, a standing Bishamonten, a Kurikara Fudō figure, and a seated image of Dainichi Nyorai. The hall’s ceiling paintings are also worth seeing. Images of the principal Buddhas from the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage decorate the inner sanctuary, while floral motifs adorn the outer ceiling.
The Daishi Hall
The Daishi Hall is dedicated to Kōbō Daishi, the revered Buddhist monk Kūkai. Visitors can pay their respects before his image, while the hall’s side section contains statues of his ten principal disciples. The building reflects the temple’s close connection with Kūkai and the Shikoku pilgrimage tradition.
Guardian Shrines
Several small shrines within the grounds are dedicated to protective deities, including Atago Daigongen, Seiryū Daigongen, Tenman Daijizaitenjin, and Gion Gozu Tennō. A smaller shrine to the side enshrines Inari Daimyōjin, a deity associated with prosperity and good fortune.
Visitors may stop at these shrines to offer prayers and appreciate the blend of Buddhist and Shinto traditions found at many historic Japanese religious sites.
The Goma Hall
The Goma Hall is used for esoteric Buddhist fire rituals, in which prayers are offered through the symbolic burning of wooden prayer sticks. It enshrines a standing image of Fudō Myōō, along with a small image of Dainichi Nyorai and a youthful statue of Prince Shōtoku.
The side section contains images of En no Gyōja, the legendary founder of Japanese mountain asceticism, and Kōbō Daishi. A seated image of Red Fudō Myōō stands at the front. This hall provides a particularly atmospheric setting for prayer and contemplation.
The Small Kannon Hall
A small Kannon Hall stands in another corner of the grounds. Dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, it offers a quiet place for personal prayer and reflection.
Hakusui Well: The Sacred Water of Kōbō Daishi
The temple has a well known as Hakusui no Ido, also called the Sacred Water of Kōbō or the Well of the Auspicious Mirror. According to local tradition, its water has healing properties and is believed to be effective against many illnesses. The well remains a popular point of interest for visitors, although such traditional beliefs should not be taken as a substitute for medical treatment.
The Steps of Protection Against Misfortune
The stone steps leading toward the main hall are known as the Yakuyoke-zaka, or Steps of Protection Against Misfortune. They are divided into three flights: 42 steps for men, 33 for women, and 13 for children, adding up to 88 steps in total, a number that echoes the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Climbing these steps is part of the temple visit for many worshippers. From the elevated area near the main hall, visitors can also look out toward the distant landscape said to resemble Kōbō Daishi reclining.
The Bell Tower
Immediately to the left after entering the main gate stands the bell tower. Visitors may ring the temple bell as part of their prayers, listening to its deep tones resonate across the peaceful grounds.
The Miniature Shikoku Pilgrimage on Mount Hakusui
Behind the temple is a trail known as the Hakusuizan Shin-Shikoku 88 Temples. This miniature pilgrimage route takes approximately 45 minutes to complete, allowing visitors to follow a compact version of the Shikoku pilgrimage and pay their respects at a series of small sacred sites.
Poetry Inscriptions
Stone monuments bearing poems can be found around the temple grounds. One inscription, by the poet Taninaka Takako, reads:
“There is a road called the Great Way — oh, the Chinese parasol tree in bloom.”
Another partially preserved inscription also refers to flowers falling. These monuments add a literary and contemplative dimension to a walk around the grounds.
Temple Lodging
Byōdō-ji offers three guest rooms in its shukubō, or temple lodging. Accommodation is available by advance reservation only. Staying overnight provides an opportunity to experience the quiet atmosphere of a Buddhist temple and spend more time in reflection during a pilgrimage.
Cultural Properties
National Historic Site: The Byōdō-ji Pilgrimage Route
A 601-meter section of the historic pilgrimage trail between Tairyū-ji, Temple 21, and Byōdō-ji, Temple 22, around Ōne Pass has been designated a National Historic Site under the name Awa Henro Michi: Byōdō-ji Route. This historic path is especially meaningful to pilgrims, who follow in the footsteps of generations of travelers on the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Tokushima Prefectural Tangible Cultural Property
The temple preserves four paintings of autumn grasses on gold-leaf paper attributed to Kanō Naizen. These works were designated Tangible Cultural Properties of Tokushima Prefecture in 1969, recognizing their artistic and historical value.
How to Get to Byōdō-ji Temple
By Train
From JR Niino Station, the temple is approximately 2.3 kilometers on foot, taking about 28 minutes. By car, the journey is approximately 2.9 kilometers and takes around five minutes.
By Bus
From the Niino Kyoku bus stop served by Tokushima Bus Anan, it is approximately 550 meters on foot, or about two minutes.
On Foot from Tairyū-ji, Temple 21
The pilgrimage trail between Tairyū-ji and Byōdō-ji is approximately 10.9 kilometers long. Pilgrims traveling on foot can follow this established route as part of their journey through the 88 temples of Shikoku.
Inner Sanctuaries and Sacred Sites Nearby
The area surrounding Byōdō-ji contains several sacred sites associated with legends of Kūkai. These locations offer additional opportunities to explore the religious traditions and spiritual landscape of Anan City.
Tsukiyo Omizu-an
According to legend, Kūkai stayed here and used his spiritual powers to bring forth clear water to help people suffering from a shortage of drinking water. The story also says that he summoned the moon and transformed the night into a moonlit scene. A small hermitage dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai was later established at the site.
Iyadani Kannon Hall
This sacred site lies in a valley once believed to be inhabited by supernatural creatures. Tradition holds that Kūkai visited the valley in his youth, carved an image of Nyoirin Kannon into the rock, and practiced ascetic disciplines there. The site preserves the memory of his spiritual training.
Abu Omizu Daishi
Abu Omizu Daishi is associated with a legend in which Kūkai prayed for people suffering from a lack of water. A golden dragon is said to have appeared, causing water to spring from the ground. The site is also known as Kinryū-an, or the Golden Dragon Hermitage.
Tradition states that water once flowed toward the sea from this location. Following a landslide, the sacred site was relocated to its present position in 1954.
Kaneuchi Daishi and Kaneuchizaka Yakushi
Kaneuchi Daishi houses a stone image of Kōbō Daishi that was moved when Fukui Dam was constructed. The site also contains a stone statue of Yakushi Nyorai consecrated in 1717. Both images continue to attract worshippers and pilgrims.
Other Attractions Near Byōdō-ji
Visitors exploring the area may also wish to discover Okayama Castle Ruins, the Oyanirami Museum, the cluster of giant camphor trees at Niino, Todoroki Shrine, and Murohime Shrine, also known as Murohime Jinja.
Experience the Spiritual Heritage of Shikoku
Byōdō-ji Temple is an important destination on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage, welcoming both devoted pilgrims and travelers interested in Japanese history and spirituality. Its sacred well, protective stone steps, richly decorated main hall, and connection to Kōbō Daishi’s legends give the temple a distinctive character.
Whether you visit to pray for protection against misfortune, walk a section of the historic pilgrimage trail, or explore the temple’s peaceful grounds, Byōdō-ji offers a meaningful opportunity to experience the religious heritage of Tokushima. Allow extra time to discover its smaller halls and the miniature pilgrimage trail behind the temple.