The History of Keikokuji Temple
Keikokuji was founded in 1413, during the Muromachi period. It was established as a retirement temple for Zenan Ichii, the head priest of Taiunji Temple in Suo Province, in what is now Yamaguchi Prefecture.
The temple later suffered destruction twice during periods of warfare. It was burned during the Eiroku era (1558–1570) and again in 1582, when Chosokabe Motochika’s military campaigns brought conflict to the region. Following these disasters, Keikokuji was rebuilt and restored with the support of Hachisuka Iemasa, the feudal lord of Tokushima.
Today, the temple stands as a reminder of the area’s long religious history and the efforts made to preserve its cultural heritage through centuries of change.
The Japanese Garden of Keikokuji
A Garden Created by Ueda Soko
The garden at Keikokuji is traditionally attributed to Ueda Soko, a samurai lord, tea master, and garden designer who lived during the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Soko studied the tea ceremony under Sen no Rikyu and became known for his refined understanding of Japanese aesthetics, which influenced both tea culture and landscape design.
In the early Heisei period, the garden underwent renovation and restoration under the direction of landscape designer Isao Yoshikawa, who served as president of the Japanese Garden Research Association. This work helped preserve the garden’s distinctive character while maintaining its historical appeal.
Traditional Design and Seasonal Beauty
Keikokuji’s garden is a traditional shoin-style garden that combines elements of karesansui, or dry landscape gardening, with those of a pond garden designed for strolling. This combination creates a landscape that feels both peaceful and powerful, balancing carefully arranged features with a sense of natural movement.
The garden’s appearance changes with the seasons, offering different colors, textures, and views throughout the year. Its quiet atmosphere makes it an appealing destination for garden enthusiasts, cultural travelers, and anyone seeking a moment of calm away from busy sightseeing routes.
Municipal Scenic Beauty Designation
On November 22, 1999, Keikokuji Garden was designated a scenic site by Anan City in recognition of its cultural and landscape value. The designation reflects the garden’s importance as part of the area’s heritage.
Getting to Keikokuji Temple
Keikokuji Temple is approximately 10 minutes by car from JR Anan Station on the Mugi Line. Its location makes it a convenient stop for visitors exploring Anan City and the surrounding attractions in southern Tokushima Prefecture.
Ueda Soko: Samurai, Tea Master, and Garden Designer
The garden’s association with Ueda Soko adds an important cultural dimension to a visit. Born Ueda Shigeyasu, he was a samurai and feudal lord who lived through the transition from the Sengoku period to the early Edo period. His achievements extended beyond the battlefield into the worlds of tea ceremony and garden design.
Early Life and Military Career
Ueda Soko was born in 1563 in Owari Province, in the area of present-day Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture. He served Niwa Nagahide and distinguished himself during the turbulent years surrounding the Honnoji Incident in 1582. He later served Toyotomi Hideyoshi and took part in several military campaigns.
During the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, Soko sided with the Western Army. After its defeat, he lost his domain, marking a turning point in his career.
His Legacy in Japanese Tea Culture
Despite his military background, Ueda Soko became highly respected as a tea master. He studied the tea ceremony under Sen no Rikyu and Furuta Oribe, eventually establishing the Ueda Soko school of tea. His approach to tea emphasized the relationship between disciplined practice, refined surroundings, and quiet contemplation.
His work as a garden designer also left a lasting mark on Japanese landscape culture. The gardens associated with him reflect the close connection between traditional tea practice and the careful arrangement of natural elements.
Later Years and Death
In his later years, Ueda Soko lived in Tokushima, in the former province of Awa, where he continued his work as a garden designer, including work on the gardens of Tokushima Castle. He died at the age of 88. His grave is located in Okishioya, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture.
Other Gardens Associated with Ueda Soko
In addition to Keikokuji Garden, Ueda Soko is associated with several other historic gardens in Japan, including the Omote Goten Garden at Tokushima Castle, the Nishinomaru Garden at Wakayama Castle, the garden at Kokawadera Temple, and the Ninomaru Garden at Nagoya Castle.
Books Featuring Ueda Soko
Ueda Soko’s life and achievements have also inspired works of literature and historical writing. Notable titles include Furyu Buken by Yo Akira Tsumoto, The Citadel by Ryotaro Shiba, and Busho Chajin, Ueda Soko by Yoshiaki Yabe.
Visit Keikokuji Temple
Keikokuji Temple offers a rewarding combination of historical architecture, Zen Buddhist heritage, and traditional Japanese garden design. Its tranquil grounds invite visitors to slow down and appreciate the details of a landscape shaped by centuries of cultural influence.
Whether you are interested in Japanese history, the tea ceremony, or the art of garden design, a visit to Keikokuji provides a peaceful and memorable experience. Its convenient access from Anan Station also makes it a worthwhile addition to a sightseeing itinerary around Anan City.