The Principal Image and Pilgrimage Verse
The principal image of Hōrinji is Nehan Shaka Nyorai, a representation of the Buddha entering final nirvana. Pilgrims may recite the mantra associated with the image:
Mantra: “Nomaku sanmanda bodanan baku.”
The temple’s traditional pilgrimage verse reflects the power of Buddhist teachings to transform suffering and wrongdoing:
Pilgrimage Verse: “The great Mahayana teachings turn sins and sorrows upside down; this is known as the sacred connection with the Turning of the Dharma Wheel.”
The History of Hōrinji Temple
Founding by Kōbō Daishi
According to temple tradition, Hōrinji was founded by Kūkai, the Buddhist monk known as Kōbō Daishi, while he was traveling through the region on a religious pilgrimage. He encountered a white snake, which was regarded as a messenger of the Buddha. Inspired by this encounter, he carved an image of Shaka Nyorai in the reclining posture and enshrined it as the temple’s principal image.
The original temple stood approximately four kilometers north of its present location, in an area known as Hōjigatani. It was called Hakujasan Hōrinji or Hōrinji, with variations in the characters used for its name.
Destruction and Reconstruction
In 1582, the temple was destroyed by fire during the military campaigns of Chōsokabe Motochika. It was rebuilt at its present location during the Shōhō era (1644–1648). Because the new site was surrounded by rice fields, the temple became known as Tanaka Hōrinji, meaning “Hōrinji in the fields.” Its present name and mountain designation were adopted later, reflecting the teaching of turning the Dharma Wheel as a path toward enlightenment.
Fire in the Edo Period and Restoration
In 1859, during the Ansei era, another fire destroyed nearly all the temple buildings except the bell tower. The structures visible today were reconstructed during the Meiji period (1868–1912), restoring the temple as an important destination for pilgrims on the Shikoku route.
A Tradition of Healing and Straw Sandals
Hōrinji is associated with a remarkable local legend: a visitor who arrived using crutches was said to have recovered the ability to walk without them after praying at the temple. In connection with this story, an extraordinary number of traditional straw sandals, known as waraji, have been dedicated at the main hall. These offerings remain a distinctive feature of the temple and reflect the faith of people praying for recovery and freedom of movement.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Niō Gate
The main gate is a two-story structure with an irimoya-style roof and statues of the Niō guardian kings. These fierce protectors stand at the entrance, symbolically guarding the sacred grounds and welcoming pilgrims into the temple.
The Main Hall
The main hall enshrines the Reclining Buddha, depicting Shaka Nyorai at the time of his passing into nirvana. More than ten statues of Buddhist disciples, known as arhats, surround the principal image.
The principal image was unveiled for an extended period in 2014. The temple’s tradition of periodic unveilings has included a five-year interval, with February 15, 2020, recorded as the final day of the subsequent unveiling. Visitors should check locally for current arrangements before planning a visit specifically to see the image.
The right side of the main hall also houses a seated statue of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Healing, while the left side enshrines Shaka Nyorai and Benzaiten, a deity associated with wisdom, music, and the arts.
The Daishi Hall
Located immediately beside the main hall, the Daishi Hall is dedicated to Kōbō Daishi. It has been open for worship since 2014 and provides pilgrims with a place to deepen their devotion to the monk whose teachings are central to the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Blue Fudō Myōō
A statue of Blue Fudō Myōō stands to the right of the main hall. This powerful Buddhist deity is depicted seated in a half-lotus posture, accompanied by the attendants Kongara Dōji and Seitaka Dōji. The statue was restored and subsequently returned to its place on the temple grounds.
The Bell Tower and Visitor Facilities
After passing through the main gate, visitors will find a purification basin on the left and a path leading toward the main hall. The Daishi Hall stands beside the main hall, while a visitor rest area and the temple office for pilgrimage stamps are also available. The bell tower is located to the left of the rest area and forms part of the temple’s historic landscape.
A Treasured Robe of Kōbō Daishi
One of Hōrinji’s notable religious treasures is a robe associated with Kōbō Daishi. It is said to have been given to the temple in 1882 after being replaced during the ritual changing of garments at Kūkai’s mausoleum in the inner sanctuary of Mount Kōya. The robe is a tangible link to the enduring religious traditions surrounding the founder of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
How to Get to Hōrinji Temple
By train: The nearest railway station is Kamojima Station on the JR Tokushima Line, approximately 4.6 kilometers from the temple. A taxi is a convenient option for completing the journey.
By car: Hōrinji is approximately 3.1 kilometers from Donari Interchange on the Tokushima Expressway. By local roads, it can be reached via Tokushima Prefectural Route 236, the Uraike-Minambara Line, and Route 12, the Naruto-Ikeda Line. The temple is about 800 meters from the Minambara intersection.
Nearby Pilgrimage Sites
Hōrinji is the ninth temple on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. Kumadani-ji, the eighth temple, is approximately 2.4 kilometers away, while Kirihataji, the tenth temple, is about 3.8 kilometers farther along the route.
Azukiarai Daishi Hall
Between Hōrinji and Kirihataji lies Azukiarai Daishi Hall, a small sacred site associated with a legend about Kōbō Daishi helping local farmers. According to the story, farmers were suffering from a shortage of water when Kōbō Daishi blessed water used to wash azuki beans, causing fresh spring water to emerge.
The story is also connected with a local custom in which households in the surrounding area were said to prepare azuki bean porridge on the night of December 24. The site is located in Kanaya, Mizuta, Donari Town, Awa City.
A Meaningful Stop on the Shikoku Pilgrimage
Hōrinji offers pilgrims an opportunity to explore the history and teachings of Japanese Buddhism in a peaceful temple setting. Its reclining Buddha, traditional architecture, and distinctive collection of straw sandals make it especially memorable among the temples of Tokushima.
Whether you are following the full Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage or visiting individual sacred sites, Hōrinji provides a place to reflect on the Buddha’s teachings, pray for well-being, and experience the traditions that have sustained pilgrims for centuries.