The Principal Buddha and Sacred Traditions
The principal image of Shakyamuni Buddha is central to the temple’s religious significance. Visitors may encounter pilgrims offering prayers and reciting Buddhist invocations as they begin their journey through the 88 temples of Shikoku.
The traditional mantra associated with the principal Buddha is “Nōmaku Sanmanda Bodanan Baku.” The temple’s pilgrimage poem, known as a go-eika, expresses the belief that visiting the Buddha at Ryōzenji can bring spiritual purification and release from worldly sins.
The Founding of Ryōzenji Temple
According to temple tradition, Ryōzenji was founded by the Buddhist priest Gyōki during the Tenpyō era (729–749), under the patronage of Emperor Shōmu. Its history is closely connected with Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, the revered monk who established the Shingon school of Buddhism in Japan.
In 815, Kūkai is said to have visited the temple and practiced ascetic training there for 21 days. During his stay, he recognized a resemblance between the surrounding landscape and Vulture Peak in ancient India, a sacred mountain associated with the Buddha’s teachings. According to tradition, this experience inspired the name Ryōzenji.
The temple also preserves Buddhist images associated with its long history, including a statue of the infant Buddha dating from the Hakuhō period and an image of Shakyamuni Buddha traditionally attributed to Kūkai. In 2014, the latter was made available for a special four-month unveiling, allowing visitors to view an image that is normally kept concealed.
From Medieval Prosperity to Reconstruction
During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), Ryōzenji prospered under the patronage of the powerful Miyoshi clan and became one of the three major monastic establishments in the historic province of Awa, now part of Tokushima Prefecture.
In 1582, the temple was destroyed by fire during military campaigns associated with Chōsokabe Motochika. It was later restored under the patronage of Hachisuka Mitsutaka, a lord of the Tokushima domain. Another major fire in 1891 destroyed most of the temple buildings, leaving the main hall and the tahōtō pagoda standing. Subsequent reconstruction efforts helped preserve the temple’s importance and its distinctive role as the first stop on the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Why Ryōzenji Is the First Temple on the Pilgrimage
The numbering of the 88 temples developed over time rather than being established during Kūkai’s lifetime. One important historical source is Shikoku Henro Michishirube, a pilgrimage guide published in 1687 that already identifies Ryōzenji as the first temple.
In the Edo period, travelers commonly reached Shikoku through Awaji Island before landing near Naruto. Because Ryōzenji was conveniently located near this traditional point of entry, it is thought to have naturally become the starting point of the pilgrimage route.
Today, pilgrims from Japan and abroad continue to visit Ryōzenji to begin their journey through the 88 sacred temples. Some undertake the entire circuit, while others visit selected temples to experience the spiritual traditions, history, and landscapes of Shikoku.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Main Gate
The impressive main gate, known as the Niōmon, features a traditional Japanese tower-gate design with a hipped-and-gabled roof. Its dignified appearance creates a memorable entrance to the temple grounds and sets the atmosphere for a visit to this important pilgrimage site.
The Main Hall
The main hall combines its worship area with a more enclosed inner sanctuary. A painting of a dragon decorates the central ceiling, while numerous hanging lanterns create a distinctive atmosphere. The building is an important place for pilgrims to offer prayers before continuing their journey.
The Tahōtō Pagoda
The temple’s tahōtō pagoda is believed to date from the Ōei era (1394–1428). It houses statues of the Five Wisdom Buddhas, representing important aspects of Buddhist teachings. The pagoda is one of the temple’s most notable historic structures.
The Daishidō and Other Halls
The Daishidō, dedicated to Kōbō Daishi, contains a striking life-size statue of the monk finished in deep black lacquer. Its solemn appearance draws the attention of visitors and reflects the temple’s close association with the Shikoku pilgrimage tradition.
Other structures include the Hall of the Thirteen Buddhas and a hall dedicated to Fudō Myōō, a powerful Buddhist deity associated with protection and the removal of obstacles. These buildings offer further insight into the religious practices observed at the temple.
Ponds, Gardens, and Peaceful Scenery
The temple grounds feature two ponds that contribute to the tranquil atmosphere. The larger pond, known as the Hōjōike or life-release pond, is crossed by a bridge, and its swimming koi provide a peaceful scene for visitors to enjoy.
The smaller pond, called the Sensuike, features a small statue of Amida Buddha. Elements of traditional garden design from the Meiji period contribute to its quiet charm.
To the northeast of the main temple area, a larger garden contains several sculptural works by artist Masato Ijō, including monuments depicting Sun Wukong, the Monkey King from the classic Chinese tale Journey to the West. These distinctive artworks add an unexpected cultural element to the historic grounds.
Annual Festivals and Buddhist Ceremonies
Ryōzenji hosts religious observances throughout the year, providing opportunities to experience living Buddhist traditions. During the first three days of January, the temple holds goma fire-prayer ceremonies, in which prayers are offered for blessings and protection.
In February, seasonal events include Setsubun ceremonies and prayers for good fortune and protection from misfortune. On the first Sunday of April, the temple celebrates the Buddha’s birthday with Hanamatsuri, the Flower Festival. A ceremony commemorating Kōbō Daishi’s birth is held on June 15.
These events are important occasions for local residents and pilgrims, reflecting the temple’s continuing role as both a spiritual center and a place of community tradition.
How to Get to Ryōzenji Temple
Ryōzenji is conveniently located near Bandō Station on the JR Shikoku Kōtoku Line, approximately a 10-minute walk from the station. Tokushima Bus services also stop at the Ryōzenji-mae bus stop, which is about a one-minute walk from the temple.
During the first three days of January, some limited express Uzushio trains make special stops at Bandō Station, making access more convenient for New Year visitors.
Free parking is available for approximately 100 regular vehicles and 10 buses. Guesthouses and traditional pilgrimage lodgings can also be found near the temple, offering convenient accommodation for those beginning or continuing the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Begin Your Shikoku Journey at Ryōzenji
Ryōzenji Temple is much more than a historic Buddhist temple. As the first temple on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, it represents the beginning of a journey shaped by faith, perseverance, and encounters with Japan’s spiritual and cultural heritage.
Its historic buildings, tranquil ponds, traditional gardens, and enduring religious customs make it a rewarding destination for pilgrims and travelers alike. If you are exploring Naruto or eastern Tokushima, a visit to Ryōzenji offers an opportunity to discover the traditions of one of Japan’s most famous pilgrimage routes and experience the peaceful atmosphere of a place where countless journeys have begun.