The History and Origins of Onzanji Temple
Founded Under Imperial Patronage
According to temple tradition, Onzanji was founded by the Buddhist monk Gyōki under the patronage of Emperor Shōmu. It was originally called Dainichizan Fukushōin Mitsugonji and served as a training center where women were prohibited from entering. The boundary of this restricted area was marked by a place known as Hanaoriza-ka, or the Slope Where Flowers Are Broken.
Kōbō Daishi and the Story of His Mother
The temple’s most famous legend dates to 814, when Kōbō Daishi, also known as Kūkai, was practicing Buddhism at Onzanji. His mother, Tamayori Gozen, came to visit him, but she was unable to enter because the temple grounds were closed to women.
According to tradition, Kūkai went to a waterfall near the temple gate, where he underwent ascetic training and performed a secret Buddhist ritual for seven days, praying that the restriction on women would be lifted. His prayers were answered, allowing his mother to enter the temple. In memory of this event and the gratitude he felt toward her, the temple became known as Onzanji, while its mountain name, Boyozan, commemorates the care and devotion shown to a mother.
Kūkai is also said to have planted a large biranjyu tree, a type of evergreen tree, and bestowed the temple with the name Hōjuin, meaning the temple of the precious tree. His mother is believed to have taken Buddhist vows at the temple and offered her hair, leading to the site also being known as the place where Tamayori Gozen had her head shaved upon entering religious life.
Reconstruction and Revival
The temple was restored in 1318 by a monk named Genkū. However, it was destroyed by fire during the Tenshō era (1573–1592) amid the military campaigns of Chōsokabe Motochika.
With support from the Hachisuka clan, the lords of the Tokushima Domain during the Edo period, the temple was gradually rebuilt. The buildings that form much of the present complex were constructed during the Bunsei era (1804–1830).
The Principal Buddha and Pilgrimage Traditions
The principal image of Onzanji is Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Medicine and Healing. The associated mantra is traditionally recited as follows:
Mantra: “On korokoro sendari matougi sowaka.”
The temple’s pilgrimage verse expresses the gratitude owed to one’s parents and encourages pilgrims to visit this sacred place. Onzanji also provides pilgrimage stamps, known as nōkyōin, for the principal temple and the Benzaiten shrine at its inner sanctuary. Visitors may also receive a traditional Buddhist vestment known as a surikesa.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
The Niō Gate
The temple’s Niō Gate stands along the traditional pilgrimage path, slightly away from the modern road. This location preserves the connection between the temple and the historic route followed by pilgrims on foot.
The Main Hall
The main hall enshrines Yakushi Nyorai and is a central place for worship and prayer. In 2014, the temple opened its principal image’s accompanying statue, known as the maedachi, for public viewing. Visitors can pause here to pay their respects and experience the quiet atmosphere of the temple.
The Daishi Hall
The Daishi Hall is dedicated to Kōbō Daishi. It houses a statue traditionally believed to have been carved by Kūkai himself, with images of the Eight Great Patriarchs of Shingon Buddhism arranged alongside it. The hall is an important stop for pilgrims following the Shikoku 88-Temple route.
The Hall of Kōbō Daishi’s Mother
The Gomokudō, or Hall of the Mother, enshrines an image of Tamayori Gozen, Kūkai’s mother. Although the statue is not open for direct viewing, the hall commemorates the story that gives Onzanji its special association with filial devotion and gratitude toward parents.
The Jizō Hall
The Jizō Hall contains statues of the Buddha’s ten principal disciples, a seated image of Jizō Bosatsu, and a collection of approximately one thousand standing Jizō figures. These images can be viewed by visitors and offer a glimpse into the temple’s devotional traditions.
The Sacred Biranjyu Tree
One of the temple’s most distinctive landmarks is the large biranjyu tree traditionally said to have been planted by Kōbō Daishi. The tree has become a symbol of Onzanji and is carefully preserved as part of the temple’s heritage. It was designated a Natural Monument of Tokushima Prefecture in 1954.
Walking Around the Temple
As you enter the approach, you cross a red bridge. The Niō Gate stands to the right, while the imposing biranjyu tree grows straight ahead. A sloping path to the left leads toward a large statue of Kōbō Daishi depicted in ascetic practice, with a parking area nearby.
From this area, allow approximately five minutes to walk up the slope toward the statue. Within the main temple grounds, the main hall, Daishi Hall, and Hall of Kōbō Daishi’s Mother are among the principal buildings. Visitors can purify themselves at the water basin before proceeding to the main hall to pray.
Historic Pilgrimage Roads and Cultural Properties
The Onzanji and Tatsueji Pilgrimage Roads
Parts of the historic pilgrimage route associated with Onzanji have been designated National Historic Sites as sections of the Awa Henro Road, recognizing their importance to the Shikoku pilgrimage tradition.
The designated sections include:
Onzanji Road: A section of approximately 400 meters leading from the Tosa Kaidō to Onzanji. It was designated in 2016.
Tatsueji Road: A section of approximately 500 meters connecting Onzanji with Tatsueji, the next temple on the pilgrimage route.
These preserved paths allow visitors to appreciate the landscape and routes that generations of pilgrims have followed on their spiritual journeys through Shikoku.
The Biranjyu Tree as a Natural Monument
The temple’s biranjyu tree was designated a Natural Monument of Tokushima Prefecture in 1954. Traditionally associated with Kōbō Daishi, it remains one of the most recognizable features of the grounds and an important part of the temple’s cultural heritage.
Legends of the Inner Sanctuary and Surrounding Area
The Legend of Kaniwa Benzaiten
Kaniwa Benzaiten, the temple’s inner sanctuary, is associated with a legend about Kūkai encountering a mysterious light on an island. According to the story, he spent the night speaking with a goddess who appeared there. At dawn, the goddess transformed into a white dragon and returned to the sea. Kūkai then enshrined Benzaiten at the site.
The tale blends Buddhist devotion with local spiritual traditions and adds a sense of mystery to the temple’s religious landscape.
Kōbō Daishi’s Staff Water
Another local legend concerns a spring known as Kōbō Daishi’s Staff Water. A traveling monk once asked local residents for water, but they falsely told him that the well water was salty. The water subsequently became salty, according to the tale. When the monk passed through the area again, he struck the ground with his staff, causing fresh water to spring forth.
Stories of this kind are found throughout Japan and reflect the enduring popular belief that Kōbō Daishi brought blessings to communities during his travels.
The Buddha Footprint Stone at Shaka-an
Near the exit from the Onzanji area is Shaka-an, a small religious site that houses a footprint stone of the Buddha, traditionally regarded as the oldest of its kind in Shikoku. The area was also once associated with a hall called Omutsuki-dō, where Kūkai’s infant swaddling cloth was said to have been kept.
Nearby Historical Attractions
The Monument Marking Minamoto no Yoshitsune’s Landing
Near Onzanji stands a stone monument marking a location traditionally associated with the landing of Minamoto no Yoshitsune during the Genpei War, the late 12th-century conflict between the Taira and Minamoto clans. The monument offers an additional historical point of interest for visitors exploring the Komatsushima area.
The Equestrian Statue of Minamoto no Yoshitsune
At the summit of Hatayama stands a large equestrian statue of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, reaching approximately 6.7 meters in height. The statue commemorates the famed warrior and provides another connection to the region’s military history and legends.
Getting to Onzanji Temple
By train: The nearest railway station is Minami-Komatsushima Station on the JR Shikoku Mugi Line, approximately 4.7 kilometers from the temple.
By bus: Take the Tokushima Bus Tatsue Line and get off at the Onzanji-mae bus stop. The temple is approximately 900 meters from the stop.
By car: The approach to the temple can be reached from the Onzanji-shita intersection on Prefectural Route 136. Free parking is available near the temple grounds.
Visitor Facilities
Onzanji does not offer temple lodging, or shukubō. The parking area accommodates approximately 20 cars and four buses, and parking is free of charge.
A Meaningful Stop on the Shikoku Pilgrimage
Onzanji is more than a stop on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. Its history, sacred tree, traditional architecture, and legends are closely tied to Kōbō Daishi’s devotion to his mother. The temple offers visitors an opportunity to reflect on gratitude, family relationships, and the spiritual traditions that have shaped Shikoku for centuries.
Whether you are undertaking the pilgrimage or exploring Tokushima’s cultural heritage, Onzanji provides a rewarding visit where Buddhist history, local legends, and the quiet beauty of a historic temple come together.