The History of Tokushima Castle and Its Garden
The garden was created in the early 17th century by Ueda Sōko, a samurai lord renowned not only as a military figure but also as a tea master and garden designer. His work reflects the aesthetics of the Momoyama period, characterized by dramatic stone arrangements and a sense of grandeur.
At Omote Goten Garden, these bold elements are balanced by the subtle beauty of traditional Japanese landscaping. The result is a space that expresses both the authority of a feudal lord and the quiet refinement associated with tea culture.
Two Styles of Traditional Japanese Gardening
Karesansui: The Dry Landscape Garden
The garden’s karesansui, or dry landscape section, represents natural scenery without using flowing water. Carefully arranged stones and gravel evoke mountains, islands, and other landscape forms, inviting visitors to appreciate the composition through imagination and contemplation.
Pond Garden for Strolling
The pond garden offers a contrasting experience. Built around an actual pond, this style is designed to be enjoyed from different viewpoints as visitors walk around the water. The scenery changes with each step, revealing new relationships between the pond, rocks, bridges, and surrounding landscape.
A distinctive feature of the garden is its extensive use of Awa blue stone, a green schist traditionally associated with Tokushima. Its rich color and natural texture give the garden a distinctive character and reinforce its connection to the geology and craftsmanship of the region.
A Unique Saltwater Garden
One of the garden’s most remarkable features is its traditional tidal-water system. Seawater from the castle’s inner moat was brought into the garden through an underground channel beneath Sukiyabashi Bridge. As the tide rose and fell, the water level in the garden changed accordingly.
This design allowed the feudal lord to observe the changing tides from within the castle grounds. The movement of the water gave the garden a changing appearance throughout the day, making it an unusual example of a traditional tidal garden.
Highlights of the Garden
The Blue-Stone Bridge and a Legendary Feat of Strength
One of the most striking features of the dry landscape garden is the Awa blue-stone bridge. Made from a single natural stone, it measures approximately 10.35 meters in length and weighs around 13 tons.
Local legend claims that Hachisuka Yoshishige, the first lord of the Tokushima domain, broke the stone by stamping on it himself. The bridge’s split appearance is associated with this tale of extraordinary strength and a forceful personality. It is also known as the Yoshiden no Fumiwari-ishi, or “Yoshishige’s Split Stone,” and the Jidanda Bridge, a name suggesting someone stamping their feet in frustration.
Whether viewed as a remarkable natural stone or as a feature connected to samurai legend, the bridge is one of the garden’s most memorable landmarks.
The Elaborate Cut-Stone Bridge
Another notable structure in the dry landscape garden is a bridge crafted from cut granite. Approximately six meters long, it has a more carefully worked and decorative appearance than the natural blue-stone bridge.
The use of multiple bridges reflects the elaborate aesthetic associated with Momoyama-style gardens. Their contrasting materials and forms create visual interest while demonstrating the importance of stonework in traditional Japanese garden design.
Yin-Yang Stones and Legends of Prosperity
On the eastern artificial hill stands a large stone known as the Yin-Yang Stone. It is traditionally associated with fertility and the prosperity of future generations. The stone is also said to resemble a human skull.
According to local legend, placing an ear against the stone allows visitors to hear the bubbling sound of a boiling cauldron in the underworld. This unusual story adds a mysterious dimension to the garden and illustrates how traditional beliefs and folklore became intertwined with the placement of stones in Japanese landscapes.
The Heart-Shaped Pond and the Movement of the Tides
The garden contains a pond known as Shinji-ike, named for its outline, which resembles the Japanese character 心, meaning “heart” or “mind.” The pond is supplied by naturally emerging spring water and is associated with the garden’s tidal-water system, which allowed its water level to respond to the changing tides.
The ability to observe these subtle changes from the lord’s residence demonstrates the sophistication of the garden’s original design. Water, stone, and carefully framed views work together to create a landscape that changes with natural conditions rather than remaining visually static.
Historic Wells and Traditional Stonework
Several wells were constructed within the garden to provide drinking water. One particularly notable feature is a well curb carved from granite, also known as Mikage stone. Beneath it, layers of green schist demonstrate how local stone was incorporated into practical structures as well as ornamental features.
These wells reveal another side of the garden’s design. Beyond its beauty, the grounds had to serve the daily needs of the castle residence. The combination of durable stone, practical water facilities, and carefully planned landscaping illustrates the technical knowledge and craftsmanship of the Tokushima domain.
Historic Religious Sites Within the Garden
The Former Kannon Hall Site
The garden contains the remains of a former Kannon Hall, where an image of Kannon, the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion, was enshrined. The hall stood in the northeastern direction traditionally regarded as the kimon, or “demon gate,” associated with spiritual vulnerability in Japanese geomancy.
Its position reflects the belief that sacred figures could protect the lord and his household from misfortune. The remains therefore offer insight into the spiritual practices that shaped the layout of the castle residence.
The Former Ancestral Shrine Site
The remains of the former ancestral shrine, established in 1780 during the Edo period, mark another important part of the garden’s history. The shrine was dedicated to the ancestors of the ruling family.
Together, these historic sites show that the garden was more than an ornamental landscape. It also formed part of the cultural and religious world of the Hachisuka family, combining aesthetic appreciation with devotion and protection.
How to Get to Omote Goten Garden
The garden is located within Tokushima Central Park in Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture, beside the Tokushima Castle Museum.
From JR Tokushima Station, it is approximately an eight-minute walk. Its convenient location makes it easy to include in a walking tour of the city’s historic attractions.
Visitors can also explore other nearby landmarks within the park, including Washi-no-mon Gate. Combining these sites with the garden provides a broader understanding of Tokushima Castle and the history of the former Tokushima domain.
Garden Size and Cultural Significance
The garden covers approximately 9,917.35 square meters, of which 5,024.79 square meters are designated as a National Place of Scenic Beauty. This designation was granted on December 13, 1941, recognizing the garden’s historical and artistic importance.
The garden’s appeal changes with the seasons, as the surrounding plants, water, and stonework interact with variations in light and weather. Each visit offers opportunities to notice different details, from the texture of the Awa blue stone to the changing reflections on the pond.
Discover the Timeless Beauty of Tokushima
Former Tokushima Castle Omote Goten Garden offers a fascinating introduction to the aesthetics, engineering, and beliefs of Japan’s feudal era. Its combination of dry landscape design, a strolling pond garden, unusual tidal-water features, and distinctive stone bridges makes it a memorable place to explore.
Beyond its carefully composed scenery, the garden preserves stories of samurai strength, traditional folklore, and the spiritual life of the Hachisuka family. A visit provides a peaceful opportunity to appreciate Japanese garden design while discovering an important part of Tokushima’s history, just a short walk from JR Tokushima Station.