Buddhist Prayer and Pilgrimage Verse
Mantra of the Principal Image: “On korokoro sendari matougi sowaka.” This sacred phrase is associated with Yakushi Nyorai and is recited by worshippers as a prayer for healing and well-being.
Pilgrimage Verse: “As colors, light and dark, dye every leaf, so too do we turn through birth and death, like autumn maple leaves.” This poetic verse reflects on the changing colors of nature and the Buddhist understanding of life’s impermanence.
The History of Awa Kokubunji
Established Under Emperor Shōmu
Awa Kokubunji was one of the provincial temples established following an imperial decree issued by Emperor Shōmu in 741. Known as the Kokubunji Establishment Edict, this order called for Buddhist temples to be built throughout Japan’s provinces to promote peace and protect the nation through Buddhist teachings.
According to temple tradition, the revered monk Gyōki founded the temple after personally carving its image of Yakushi Nyorai. Emperor Shōmu is also said to have presented a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha and a copy of the Great Perfection of Wisdom Sutra, while Empress Kōmyō is traditionally associated with the donation of a memorial tablet.
The temple originally belonged to the Hossō school of Buddhism and is believed to have developed into a substantial complex equipped with the traditional seven major buildings of a Buddhist monastery. Its original scale reflected the important role that provincial temples played in the religious and political life of ancient Japan.
Changes in Buddhist Affiliation
Temple tradition holds that Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, visited during the Kōnin era (810–824) and converted the temple to the Shingon school of esoteric Buddhism. However, the details of its early development and religious history are not fully established by surviving historical records.
A document from 756, marking the first anniversary of Emperor Shōmu’s death, records the distribution of Buddhist ritual objects to Awa Kokubunji. This provides historical evidence of the temple’s significance during the Nara period.
Destruction and Reconstruction
During the Tenshō era (1573–1592), the temple was destroyed by fire amid military campaigns associated with Chōsokabe Motochika, a powerful warlord who sought to control Shikoku. Reconstruction began in 1741 under the direction of the ruling Hachisuka family of the Tokushima Domain.
In 1746, the temple changed its affiliation from Shingon Buddhism to the Sōtō school of Zen Buddhism and became a branch temple of Kōshōji in Uji, Kyoto. Its present-day character reflects these centuries of rebuilding and religious change.
Highlights of the Temple Grounds
Sanmon Gate
Entering through the temple’s single-story Sanmon gate, visitors step into a tranquil religious setting. The simple entrance leads into grounds where historic architecture and quiet surroundings create a sense of separation from the everyday world.
Main Hall — Ruriden
The present Main Hall, known as Ruriden, was rebuilt around 1826, during the Bunsei era. From 2015 through the end of 2020, its roof underwent repairs and the building received seismic reinforcement to help preserve it for future generations.
The hall is dedicated to the temple’s Buddhist worship and remains a central focus for pilgrims and other visitors. Its long history reflects the continued role of Awa Kokubunji as a place of prayer and religious observance.
Daishidō Hall
The Daishidō, a hall dedicated to Kōbō Daishi, was destroyed in a fire in 1996 and rebuilt in 2014. Although the current structure is relatively recent, it continues to serve as an important place of worship for pilgrims who revere Kūkai and his contributions to Japanese Buddhism.
Hall of Ususama Myōō
To the right of the Main Hall stands a hall dedicated to Ususama Myōō, a Buddhist deity associated with purification. The hall also enshrines figures including Hakusan Daigongen and Yuga Daigongen, reflecting the diverse traditions of worship that have developed around the temple.
Foundation Stones of the Seven-Story Pagoda
One of the most significant historical remains on the grounds is the foundation stone of a seven-story pagoda dating to the Nara period. This substantial stone remnant provides tangible evidence of the scale of the original temple complex and helps visitors imagine the grandeur of the ancient provincial monastery.
Awa Kokubunji Garden: A National Place of Scenic Beauty
One of the temple’s greatest attractions is Awa Kokubunji Garden, a dry landscape garden located in the southwestern part of the grounds. It is renowned for its dramatic stone arrangements, which use locally sourced green crystalline schist known as Awa no Aoshima or “Awa blue stone.” Despite the name, the stone typically displays distinctive greenish tones.
Believed to have been created in the latter half of the 16th century, the garden is traditionally associated with the powerful Miyoshi clan of the Sengoku period, an era marked by regional warfare and political upheaval. Rather than relying on ponds or flowing water, the garden uses carefully arranged stones to suggest mountains, landscapes, and the movement of water through an abstract composition.
Monumental Stone Arrangements
The garden’s bold stonework is its defining feature. Some of the upright stones are exceptionally tall, making the composition particularly striking. Their scale, placement, and contrast with the surrounding ground create a powerful visual effect characteristic of traditional Japanese dry landscape gardens.
In 1966, the garden was surveyed and measured by Mirei Shigemori, a leading Japanese garden historian and designer known for his research into traditional gardens. In 2000, Awa Kokubunji Garden was officially designated a National Place of Scenic Beauty, recognizing its historical and artistic significance.
The garden can be viewed during the temple’s visiting hours. An admission fee of ¥300 is required. Visitors interested in Japanese landscape design should allow time to appreciate the stone arrangements from different viewpoints and observe how their appearance changes with the light.
Historic Site and Cultural Heritage
Awa Kokubunji Temple Site
The remains of Awa Kokubunji are designated a historic site by Tokushima Prefecture, a status granted in 1953. The original monastery is believed to have followed a layout inspired by Tōdaiji Temple in Nara, one of Japan’s most influential ancient Buddhist institutions.
Its layout is thought to have included a seven-story pagoda to the west, with the Main Hall and Lecture Hall aligned along a central axis. The historic precinct, including the area occupied by the present temple, is estimated to have extended across a square of approximately two chō on each side, or about 218 meters by 218 meters.
Although much of the original complex has disappeared, the surviving remains and reconstructed buildings provide a glimpse into the scale and organization of Buddhist institutions in ancient Japan.
Access to Awa Kokubunji Temple
By train: The nearest railway station is Fuchū Station on the JR Shikoku Tokushima Line. The temple is approximately 2.6 km from the station. Visitors can walk or take a taxi for the final part of the journey.
By bus: Tokushima Bus services on the Kamiyama Line via Enmei and the Amanohara-nishi Line serve the Kokubunji-mae bus stop. From there, the temple is approximately 400 meters away on foot. Check current timetables before traveling.
By car: From National Route 192, turn at the Yano intersection and continue for approximately 400 meters. The temple is about 7.9 km from Aizumi Interchange on the Tokushima Expressway and approximately 11.1 km from Itano Interchange on the Takamatsu Expressway.
Free parking is available for approximately 10 standard cars. Large vehicles cannot enter the parking area, so visitors traveling by coach or other large vehicles should make alternative arrangements.
Discover Ancient Buddhist Heritage in Tokushima
Awa Kokubunji Temple offers more than a quiet stop on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Its origins in the Nara period connect it to the nationwide Buddhist temple-building initiative of Emperor Shōmu, while its surviving pagoda foundation stone recalls the scale of its original complex. The temple’s later history, including its destruction and reconstruction, reveals how religious institutions endured through periods of conflict and change.
The highlight for many visitors is the garden, where monumental Awa stone arrangements create a dramatic example of traditional Japanese dry landscape design. Whether you are following the pilgrimage route, exploring Japan’s ancient religious history, or appreciating Japanese gardens, Awa Kokubunji is a rewarding destination that brings together spirituality, archaeology, architecture, and landscape artistry.