A Mountain Temple on a Challenging Pilgrimage Route
Kakurinji stands near the summit of Mount Kakurinji, at an elevation of approximately 516.1 meters. The main hall is situated at around 495 meters above sea level, making it the seventh-highest temple among the 88 pilgrimage sites.
The temple is part of a famously demanding section of the pilgrimage route. A traditional saying describes three particularly challenging temples in the former province of Awa, now Tokushima Prefecture: “First Shōsanji, second Otsuru, third Tairyūji.” Kakurinji’s steep approach is known as henro-korogashi, literally “the pilgrim-tumbler,” a name that reflects the difficulty of climbing the rugged mountain trail.
For those who undertake the climb, the journey is an opportunity to experience the physical effort and spiritual reflection at the heart of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Mantra of the Principal Deity
The mantra associated with Jizō Bosatsu is traditionally recited as: “On kakakabi sanmaei sowaka.” Visitors may hear pilgrims chanting this sacred phrase as they pray at the temple.
Pilgrimage Verse
Kakurinji’s traditional pilgrimage verse evokes a forest of cranes and the presence of Jizō Bosatsu, connecting the temple’s name with the legend of its founding. Such verses are recited or remembered by pilgrims as they travel between sacred sites on the Shikoku route.
The Legend and History of Kakurinji
According to temple tradition, Kakurinji was founded in 798 by the Buddhist monk Kūkai, also known as Kōbō Daishi, under the patronage of Emperor Kanmu. Kūkai is one of the most influential figures in Japanese Buddhism and is closely associated with the Shingon tradition and the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Legend tells that while practicing asceticism on the mountain, Kūkai encountered a pair of white cranes, one male and one female, protecting a golden statue of Jizō Bosatsu. Deeply moved by the sight, he carved an image of Jizō from sacred timber and enshrined it as the temple’s principal deity. The temple’s name, Kakurinji, refers to the “forest of cranes” associated with this story.
Over the centuries, the temple attracted devotion from historical figures, including Emperor Heizei, Emperor Saga, Minamoto no Yoritomo, and Minamoto no Yoshitsune. It also received protection from Hachisuka Iemasa, a feudal lord of Tokushima. These connections reflect the temple’s longstanding religious and historical importance.
The Arrow-Wounded Jizō
Another enduring legend concerns the temple’s principal image, known as Yaoi no Jizō, or “the Jizō wounded by an arrow.” According to the story, a hunter accidentally shot an arrow that struck the chest of the Jizō statue. The mark of the wound is said to remain on the image, serving as a reminder of the sacred power attributed to the bodhisattva.
Highlights Within the Temple Grounds
Sanmon Gate and Guardian Statues
The main entrance gate, built in 1909, is known as the Niōmon, or Deva Guardian Gate. It features a pair of fierce guardian statues, traditionally placed at Buddhist temple entrances to protect the sacred grounds. A pair of crane sculptures also adorns the gate, reinforcing the bird imagery associated with the temple’s founding legend.
Passing through the gate marks the transition from the outside world into a quiet religious setting, where historic structures and forested surroundings create a solemn atmosphere.
Hexagonal Jizō Hall
The Hexagonal Jizō Hall is distinguished by its six-sided architectural form and houses six statues of Jizō associated with sacred sand. It provides a quiet place for visitors to pause, offer prayers, and reflect on the protective role of Jizō in Japanese Buddhist belief.
Memorial Hall for the War Dead
Built in 1948, the Chūreiden is a memorial hall dedicated to those who died in war. Visitors may pay their respects in silence, remembering the lives lost in conflicts and reflecting on the importance of peace.
Goma Hall and Daishi Hall
The Goma Hall, built in 1926, is used for goma rituals, a form of Buddhist fire ceremony in which offerings are made into a sacred fire while prayers are recited. These ceremonies are intended to express devotion and seek spiritual purification or blessings.
The Daishi Hall, built in 1913, is dedicated to Kōbō Daishi, the revered monk traditionally credited with founding Kakurinji. Both buildings are important places of worship for pilgrims following in his spiritual footsteps.
Main Hall and the Sacred Cedar
The main hall, traditionally dated to 1604, is the spiritual center of Kakurinji. It enshrines the temple’s principal image of Jizō Bosatsu and is an important destination for pilgrims who come to offer prayers.
Behind the hall stands a large cedar known as the Gohonzon Kōrin no Sugi, or “Cedar of the Descent of the Principal Image.” According to temple tradition, the tree is associated with Kūkai’s founding of the temple. Its impressive presence adds to the sense of age and mystery surrounding the sanctuary.
Three-Story Pagoda
The temple’s striking three-story pagoda was built in 1823 and rises approximately 23 meters. It enshrines the Five Wisdom Buddhas: Hōshō, Ashuku, Dainichi, Muryōju, and Fukūjōju. These Buddhas represent different aspects of enlightened wisdom in esoteric Buddhist teachings.
The pagoda is one of Kakurinji’s most recognizable landmarks. Its traditional wooden architecture and elevated setting make it a particularly impressive feature of the temple grounds.
Chinju Hall and Seitendō Hall
The Chinju Hall, built in 1652, enshrines Tsurumine Daigongen, a protective deity associated with the temple. The Seitendō Hall, built in 1758, stands at the highest point of the grounds and houses an image of En no Gyōja, a legendary ascetic traditionally regarded as a founder of Japanese mountain asceticism, known as shugendō.
This upper area offers a particularly quiet atmosphere and opportunities to appreciate the surrounding mountain scenery. Its association with mountain asceticism adds another dimension to the temple’s religious heritage.
Bell Tower
The bell tower stands to the right after entering through the main gate and climbing the path. It houses a large bell cast in 1949, weighing approximately 135 kan, an old Japanese unit of weight equivalent to about 506 kilograms.
The bell tower is generally kept closed, and ordinary visitors are not permitted to ring the bell. Even so, the structure remains an important part of the temple’s traditional layout.
Other Buildings and Facilities
Main Abbot’s Quarters and Training Hall
The main abbot’s quarters, built in 1895, form one of the temple’s central facilities. A separate training hall, constructed in 1970, covers an area of approximately 120 tatami mats. It is used for Buddhist practice, religious ceremonies, and other temple activities.
Treasury Hall and Storehouse
The Reihōden, or Treasury Hall, was built in 1961 to house the temple’s important religious and historical objects. The temple’s storehouse dates to April 1748. Together, these facilities help preserve artifacts associated with Kakurinji’s long history.
Haiku Monument
Near the right side of the Niōmon Gate stands a monument bearing a haiku by Takiryōjō. The inscription reads, “Suien ni mahoroshi no tsuru kobushi saki.” The poetic image evokes cranes and a dreamlike landscape, offering visitors a literary expression of the temple’s distinctive atmosphere.
Cultural Properties and Historic Pilgrimage Trails
Kakurinji preserves a range of cultural properties that demonstrate its importance as a religious and historical site. Its heritage includes Buddhist sculptures, paintings, architectural works, and sections of the traditional pilgrimage trail.
Important Cultural Property: Standing Statue of Jizō Bosatsu
Among the temple’s notable treasures is a painted wooden standing statue of Jizō Bosatsu dating to the late Heian period (794–1185). The statue measures 63.3 centimeters in height and was made using the joined-wood construction technique known as yosegi-zukuri.
Designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan in 1911, the statue is currently entrusted to the Kyoto National Museum for safekeeping. Although it is not normally displayed at Kakurinji, its designation reflects the artistic and historical significance of the temple’s Buddhist heritage.
National Historic Site: Kakurinji Pilgrimage Trail
The Kakurinji Trail forms part of the historic pilgrimage network known as the Awa Henro Road. A section of approximately 1.27 kilometers between Mizunomi Daishi and Kakurinji was designated a National Historic Site in 2010. The first section of the route continuing from Kakurinji toward Tairyūji is also protected as part of this historic trail network.
These mountain paths preserve the landscape through which pilgrims have traveled for generations. Walking them offers a deeper appreciation of the physical demands and cultural traditions of the Shikoku pilgrimage, as well as the scenic beauty of Tokushima’s mountainous interior.
Tokushima Prefectural Tangible Cultural Properties
The temple’s cultural heritage also includes a silk painting depicting Jizō Bosatsu welcoming the faithful, designated a Tokushima Prefectural Tangible Cultural Property in 1968. The three-story pagoda has also received prefectural protection; the source records its designation in 1952. These works and structures contribute to the preservation of the temple’s distinctive artistic and architectural character.
Katsura Town Tangible Cultural Properties
Kakurinji’s main hall was designated a Katsura Town Tangible Cultural Property in 1978. Three volumes of the Senbutsumyōkyō, a Buddhist scripture listing the names of Buddhas, are also protected under the town’s cultural-property program. These designations highlight the temple’s importance to the local community as well as to the wider pilgrimage tradition.
Nationally Recognized Important Art Object
A silk painting of Shakyamuni Buddha accompanied by two attendant bodhisattvas, known as the Shaka Triad, was recognized as an Important Art Object by the Japanese government in 1940. Like the Jizō statue, this painting is entrusted to the Kyoto National Museum. Its recognition underscores the artistic value of the religious treasures associated with Kakurinji.
Visitor Facilities
Accommodation and Parking
Kakurinji does not operate temple lodging, known as shukubō, so visitors planning an overnight stay should arrange accommodation elsewhere in the region. Free parking is available for approximately 30 standard passenger cars, making the temple accessible to visitors traveling by car.
How to Get to Kakurinji Temple
By Train
The nearest railway access described in the original guide is Tate’e Station on the JR Mugi Line, approximately 13.5 kilometers from the temple. Because the temple is located high in the mountains, visitors should plan the onward journey carefully rather than expect to reach the grounds directly on foot from the station without a substantial walk.
By Bus
Take a Tokushima Bus service on the Katsura Line toward Yokose and get off at the Ikena bus stop. From there, the temple is approximately 3.4 kilometers away. Check current bus timetables before departure, as services in rural areas may be limited.
By Car
The temple can be reached via Tokushima Prefectural Route 19, the Anan–Washiki–Hiwasa Line, and Prefectural Route 283, the Washiki–Katsura Line. The route crosses the mountain pass known as Tsurutōge before reaching the temple. Drivers should allow extra time for narrow and winding mountain roads.
Nearby Places of Interest
Mizunomi Daishi
Mizunomi Daishi is located approximately 1.27 kilometers before Kakurinji along the pilgrimage trail. According to local legend, Kōbō Daishi struck the ground with his staff, causing water to spring forth. The site is a meaningful stop for pilgrims and a reminder of the legends associated with the monk’s travels throughout Shikoku.
Thatched Pilgrim Rest Shelter
A thatched-roof shelter stands along the Kakurinji Trail, offering pilgrims a place to pause during the mountain climb. Such traditional rest shelters reflect the long-standing culture of hospitality and mutual support associated with the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Temples Before and After Kakurinji
Kakurinji is the 20th temple on the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. The route approaches from Tatsueji Temple, the 19th temple, approximately 13.1 kilometers away, and continues to Tairyūji Temple, the 21st temple, approximately 6.7 kilometers farther along the pilgrimage route.
For pilgrims walking between these temples, the surrounding mountain trails are an essential part of the experience. The combination of steep paths, forest scenery, and centuries-old places of worship makes this section particularly memorable.
Discover the Spiritual Heritage of Tokushima
With its mountain setting, ancient legends, traditional architecture, and protected cultural treasures, Kakurinji Temple offers a compelling glimpse into Japan’s Buddhist heritage. From the guardian statues at the entrance to the elegant three-story pagoda and the sacred cedar behind the main hall, every part of the grounds reflects centuries of devotion.
Whether you are walking the Shikoku pilgrimage or exploring Tokushima’s historic sites by car, a visit to Kakurinji offers an opportunity to experience the quiet beauty of the mountains and the spiritual traditions that have drawn pilgrims here for generations.