A Shrine Rooted in Ancient Mythology
Nishiteru Shrine stands just below the summit of Mount Otaki, which rises to 946 meters above sea level. The shrine is also associated with Takiji Shrine, one of the candidates proposed as the location of the ancient shrine recorded in the Engishiki Jinmyōchō, a Heian-period register of Shinto shrines.
According to the shrine’s traditional account, its origins date back to the age of the gods. Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, the deity who governs the realm of night, is said to have sent Tagitsuhime-no-Mikoto to Mount Otaki to watch over the region in the direction of Yamato, an ancient name for an area centered on present-day Nara. From this mountain, she was believed to oversee the Seto Inland Sea.
This legend connects the shrine with the moon, the night sky, and the protection of the surrounding lands and waters. Its remote mountain setting adds to the sense of mystery that has drawn worshippers to the site for generations.
Kobo Daishi and the Tradition of Mountain Worship
In the early Heian period, the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai) is said to have practiced ascetic training on the mountain and enshrined Nishiteru Daigongen. The site subsequently developed into a mountain religious center where Shinto and Buddhist beliefs were practiced together.
For centuries, the deity was revered under the name Nishiteru Gongen. During the Edo period, the shrine received the patronage of the Inada family, senior retainers of the Tokushima domain, as well as the lords of the Takamatsu domain. They supported the shrine through donations of land and funds for repairs and maintenance.
This history reflects the longstanding relationship between mountain sanctuaries and regional authorities in Japan, where religious institutions often served as important centers of local identity and spiritual life.
Separation of Shinto and Buddhism in the Meiji Era
In the early Meiji period, government policies separating Shinto and Buddhism led to the division of Nishiteru Shrine from the neighboring Buddhist temple, Otaki-ji. The shrine adopted its present name, Nishiteru Shrine, and in 1873 was officially designated a district shrine, or gōsha.
Although its institutional structure changed, the shrine continued to serve as an important place of worship for the surrounding community. Its grounds preserve traces of the area’s earlier tradition of combined Shinto and Buddhist devotion.
The Legend of the Guardian Komainu
One of Nishiteru Shrine’s best-known stories concerns a pair of stone guardian dogs, or komainu, dedicated in 1843. According to local legend, one summer night a mother and child fleeing from a wolf took refuge inside a small shrine on the grounds. Just as the wolf was about to attack, the stone guardian dog is said to have come to life and driven the animal away, saving them both.
The story has been passed down through generations and reinforces the role of the komainu as protectors of sacred places. The original statue eventually deteriorated with age and was moved to a safer location beneath the main sanctuary. New stone guardian dogs now stand in its former position, continuing the tradition of guarding the shrine.
Highlights of the Shrine Grounds
The First Torii Gate
The first torii gate stands beside the access road and marks the entrance to the sacred grounds. Beyond it, stone steps lead visitors toward the shrine buildings. Passing through the gate offers a quiet transition from the mountain road into an atmosphere of worship and contemplation.
The Shrine Office and Kagura Hall
The grounds include a shrine office and a kagura-den, a hall used for sacred dance and musical offerings during religious ceremonies. An open area nearby provides space for visitors to pause and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
The Main Sanctuary
The main complex consists of a worship hall and a principal sanctuary. Visitors can offer prayers here while appreciating the dignified atmosphere and traditional architecture. As the spiritual heart of Nishiteru Shrine, this is the central place to reflect on its long history of moon worship and mountain devotion.
Inari Shrine
An auxiliary Inari Shrine stands within the grounds and enshrines Ukanomitama-no-Okami, a deity associated with food, agriculture, and prosperity. Its worship hall and main sanctuary are combined into a single building, giving the small shrine its own distinctive appearance.
Kumano Shrine
Kumano Shrine enshrines Kumano Gongen, Izanagi-no-Okami, and Izanami-no-Okami. The deity originally worshipped at an inner sanctuary on Mount Otaki was transferred here in the early Showa period. The shrine offers another glimpse into the area’s history of Shinto-Buddhist syncretism.
Hachidai Ryuo Shrine
Hachidai Ryuo Shrine is dedicated to the Eight Great Dragon Kings, traditionally named Nanda, Upananda, Sagara, Vasuki, Takshaka, Anavatapta, Manasvin, and Utpalaka in Japanese Buddhist tradition. A stone shrine marks the place where visitors can pray to these dragon deities, which are associated with water and spiritual protection.
The Prayer Stone Area and “Moon Wooden Horse”
The shrine grounds also feature a designated area for quiet prayer known as the “Prayer Stone Area.” Another distinctive attraction is Tsuki no Mokuba, or “Moon Wooden Horse,” a painting of a sacred horse created by artist Haruyo Fuke. A completion ceremony for the artwork was held on November 10, 2019. The painting has become a memorable symbol of the shrine and adds an artistic dimension to the spiritual atmosphere of the grounds.
Access and the Mountain Approach
To reach Nishiteru Shrine, follow Prefectural Route 106 and continue past Otaki-ji Temple. A parking area is located beside the mountain pass to the east of the temple. From there, walk approximately 50 meters east along the approach path to reach the shrine grounds.
Set amid the quiet mountain landscape, Nishiteru Shrine offers a different experience from the larger, more frequently visited shrines of Japan. Its combination of moon-god mythology, Buddhist influence, local legends, and traditional shrine buildings makes it a rewarding destination for travelers interested in Japanese spirituality and cultural history.
Discover a Hidden Spiritual Treasure in Tokushima
Nishiteru Shrine is a place where legends of the moon god meet centuries of mountain worship. From the historic guardian dogs and auxiliary shrines to the sacred horse painting, each feature reveals another layer of the site’s religious and cultural heritage.
For visitors exploring the mountains around Mima City, a stop at Nishiteru Shrine offers a peaceful opportunity to experience a lesser-known side of Tokushima Prefecture. The quiet approach, forested setting, and enduring traditions make it a memorable destination for those seeking Japan’s more contemplative spiritual places.